2022年12月29日,西太后 vivienne westwood 在家中平静去世,享年81岁。至此,时尚界又走了一位大神,她对时尚界有着深刻影响力。
永远的朋克之母
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● vivienne westwood
“朋克教母”vivienne作为英国时装界最前卫的时装设计师,叱咤风云50年,92年从伊丽莎白女王手中接受了大英帝国的勋章,成为名副其实的朋克女王。
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●vivienne westwood 1970s
从上世纪70年代起开始创作反传统审美意识和价值观的朋克风采系列,1982年,她去了巴黎,注册了同名品牌,成为·匡特之后的第一位在巴黎举办时装发布会的英国设计师。
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●麦当娜mtv颁奖典礼着白色内衣
献唱“like a virgin”,1985
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紧身橡胶套装、无跟袜、外穿的内衣等都是她的惊人之作,而恰恰正是这种怪诞、荒谬的形式,博得了西方颓废青年的喝彩。
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vivienne的设计最令人赞赏的是她从传统历史服装里取材,不断将17、18世纪的传统服饰里的特质拿来加以演绎,以特别的手法,将街头流行成功的带入时尚的领域;
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vivienne成功地将17、18世纪的宫廷贵族服饰特质引入街头亚文化时尚元素。将宫廷贵妇融合反叛的朋克标志,已成为vivienne的独特风格。
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90s的西太后保留了20世纪以来传统历史服装的奢靡印记,又承接了新世纪现代风格的转型,基于她政治上的无政府主义以及艺术上的反传统精神。
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她身体力行的以反传统的粗暴方式来挑战服装美学,通过恰如其分的自由与叛逆创造出不一样的英伦风尚,“这个女人的服装和英国历史文化的关系是任何设计师都无法轻易取代的。”karl larfeld 曾对她这样评价道。
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随着年龄的增长,她的设计中反叛性有所收敛,但是绝不乏味,仍然是有趣的混乱,优雅怪诞的迷幻狂欢气息扑面而来。
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●vivienne westwood 2017ss
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●ak系列 2017fw
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最新作品
vivienne westwood 2023 春季成衣系列
vivienne westwood 2023 春季成衣系列因为女王的葬礼推迟了一天发布,该系列符合查理三世国王和设计师的环保热情,以“born to rewild”为主题,将品牌历史档案元素加以创新演绎,运用全新的剪裁手法和廓形,破洞、撕裂、假肩等元素在诸如衬衫和有机棉牛仔等单品中被大量运用。
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该系列由 90% 的低冲击面料制成,从花卉、霓虹色格纹和细条纹西装到垂褶连衣裙、颇具雕塑感的夹克等,不少成衣剪裁锋利感十足。另外 vivienne westwood 还借鉴了英国军事历史,设计一款有多种穿法的双排扣夹克,并复刻品牌档案的 t 恤口号,向女王和国家致敬。
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刺绣、法式提花和条纹提花,以全新或经典的花卉印花图案相互碰撞,大面积覆盖在套装之上。霓虹色彩夏季格纹,蓝白条纹套装以及随处可见的甜心图案,则将我们瞬间带回那个摇滚盛夏的英伦校园。
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品牌旗下的ak23ss系列,设计师用服装来讲述故事,每一个造型都有着不同的身份:有石匠和天使,也有僧侣、贵族和平民。
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灵感来源于凯瑟琳·伦德尔的书籍《超级无限·约翰多恩的转变》,优雅摇滚朋克风格,延续了西太后浓厚的品牌dna。
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ak系列的衣服每一季都有突破但是又与的vw出奇的一致,更加fancy,充满故事和戏剧性。
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参考来源:
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